Chicago, part one (October 2019)

There comes a time in a man’s life when he must ask himself, “Do ya wanna go to Illinois?” For most people, especially The Happy Schnapps Combo, the answer to that question is “No, I don’t wanna do dat.” But thanks to Open House Chicago, I was just itchin’ to go! For the first few days of this trip, I was joined by a pair of old friends who are familiar with the Chicago area. We enjoyed visits to several buildings with beautiful architecture and decor, and learned that folks in Chicago are mighty proud of their mighty vault doors. I snapped many a photograph.

Following the conclusion of Open House Chicago, I left the city to check out a couple of places toward the middle of Illinois, most notably Starved Rock State Park. I snapped many a photograph. Then I returned to Chicago, to spend nearly a week there on my own. As I had done nearly two years prior in San Francisco, I decided to go without a rental car, relying on public transportation (and private feet). I am happy to report that this approach worked very well in Chicago. I am NOT happy to report that all my photos from Open House Chicago and Starved Rock State Park have been lost. So I only have photos from the point where I returned to Chicago. I really wish I had the pics from Starved Rock State Park. This is a place that you would never expect to exist in central Illinois – it features several small box canyons and waterfalls. It actually struck me as being a smaller and much wetter version of Colorado National Monument. If you’re ever driving across the middle of Illinois, I highly recommend you make the time to hike the trails in Starved Rock State Park.


We now return to my return to Chicago. For my car-free week in the big city, I wanted a centrally located hotel, with easy access to rail and bus routes. I chose the Congress Hotel. Here’s what it looks like:

Given the reputation of this hotel and some of the decor pictured above, I expected the actual guest rooms to be a little more luxurious. But as you can see from the last four pics above, it was actually pretty spartan. And I learned something about my big long feet. Apparently when I approach my bed at home, I automatically put my toes under the bed; these beds are on pedestals that are the same width as the mattresses, and every time I approached either of the beds, I stubbed my toes on the pedestals. I should have tried to get a picture of that floor-level menace. I also should’ve photographed the terrible excuse for a fitness center. It was tiny, there were cables and boxes strewn all over the floor, and it was seriously HOT in there. So, yeah, the Congress Hotel was a bit of a letdown, but it was indeed a great location for car-free transit: full-blown passenger rail only a block away, elevated AND subway lines (yes, Chicago has both) just two blocks away, and all of downtown within walking distance.


Regular readers know that I’m an architecture fan. Two of my favorite types of building are 1920s-era skyscrapers and old churches. So, I ask you, what if I could find a building that was both? Well, I did. Early in the 20th Century, Methodist Church leaders in Chicago decided to build a 21-story church, with the church occupying floors 1-4 and the rest of the building being leased out as office space. And yes, they did put a traditional church spire on top. There’s even a small chapel in the base of the spire (which would make it the 22nd floor). Check this place out…


After the skyscrapin’ church, I was off to the king of Chicago skyscrapers – the Willis Tower (formerly knows as the Sears Tower). At 108 stories, this was the tallest building in the world for several years. Floor number 103 is an observation deck, open to the public. Having spent a few days walking around downtown Chicago looking up at the skyscrapers, I found it oddly exciting to be looking down at them, and being able to take in so many at once. I don’t believe photos can do justice to this experience. But what the Hell? Let’s try…


Those of you who are railfans (and maybe some who aren’t) know the name Pullman. Back in the days when most long-distance trips were taken by train, the Pullman Company was very well-known for building the finest passenger cars around. Most of those cars were built right here in the Chicagoland area. George Pullman had an entire company town built south of Chicago – including the factory complex, houses, churches, a hotel, schools. The town was named (of course) Pullman. Fittingly, I caught a passenger train to get from downtown to what is now the Pullman neighborhood, having been absorbed by Chicago some time ago. Pullman has managed to maintain itself as a quaint and seemingly peaceful neighborhood, despite being surrounded by neighborhoods that are home to the likes of Bad, Bad Leroy Brown. Take a gander for yourself…


On my last full day in Chicago, I took the Jackson Park Express to Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry. I did go in and enjoy the museum, but the exhibits were only part of the reason for this little trip. Y’see, Jackson Park was the site of the 1893 Columbian Exposition (a.k.a. the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair). This exposition/fair was renowned for its architecture and its landscaping. Sadly the building housing the Museum of Science and Industry is the only building that remains from the 1893 fair. All that remains of the landscaping is a Japanese-style garden. Enjoy them vicariously through the photographs below!

Tune in next week for “part two” which will actually just be all the photos I took that didn’t fit into any of the galleries above. It may not be much more than a mass of disjointed architectural photos. But they will be COOL architectural photos.

Leave a comment